East African nations are finding it difficult to turn away from cheap second-hand clothes as they try to build their own fashion industries. These used garments, known locally as 'mitumba', are flooding markets and making it hard for local designers to compete on price.
The East African Community (EAC), a group of several East African countries, has long seen imported used clothing as a hurdle. Local fashion experts like Zia Bett from Kenya's Zia Africa brand state they simply cannot match the low prices. Elizabeth Paul, who runs Kuya Creations in Tanzania, echoes this sentiment, noting that for the price of one new dress, a customer could buy ten second-hand ones. This challenge is significant because the trade in used clothing is very popular. In 2022, Kenya alone imported nearly 180,000 tonnes of used clothing. This amount has grown substantially over the years.
The EAC first considered banning these imports about a decade ago. However, that plan did not move forward. Now, the debate is back. Uganda has recently added a new 30% tax on used clothing imports. This move aims to support local garment makers and help the environment. Kenya's treasury also tried to change how it taxes these imports, hoping to simplify the process for traders. But this proposal faced a strong reaction from Kenyans who feared higher prices. The Kenyan government quickly removed this idea from its Finance Bill.
Kenya already has a 30% customs duty on used clothing imports. This is even higher than the duty on new clothes. Data from the Observatory of Economic Complexity shows Kenya is the largest importer of used clothing in Africa. The United Nations trade data also reveals a 76% rise in these imports into Kenya between 2013 and 2022.
In Uganda, second-hand clothes are the most desired items, according to the Economic Policy Research Centre in 2024. Imported new clothing comes second, and local manufacturing is third. The new 30% environmental tax in Uganda is in addition to an existing 35% import duty and an 18% Value Added Tax (VAT). The Ugandan government stated this levy is meant to reduce environmental harm and promote local production.
However, these new taxes are not popular with everyone. Ugandan mitumba traders, like Aaron Sekky, argue that the economy should be free. They believe the second-hand trade supports many people. The supply chain for used clothes is extensive. It includes importers, wholesalers, tailors who repair damaged items, and food vendors at the markets. Research commissioned by the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) suggests that up to 4.9 million people across East Africa depend on this trade for their jobs.
Some experts, like Dr. Andrew Brooks from King's College London, question the value of jobs in retail. He argues that importing and selling goods creates fewer jobs than actual production, marketing, and distribution. Lisa Kibutu, a board member of the Kenya Fashion Council, also notes that many mitumba jobs are temporary and offer little chance for advancement or social mobility. Despite these concerns, she acknowledges that used clothing does provide a vital service, enabling even the poorest individuals to afford decent clothes, a significant change from decades past.
The appeal of used clothing goes beyond just low prices. Many consumers believe these garments offer good quality and last longer. Shoppers at markets like Ilala in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, are drawn to the affordability and uniqueness of second-hand items. Even with a 35% import tax on used clothes in Tanzania, markets like Ilala remain busy with customers seeking affordable fashion options. This ongoing popularity makes it hard for the EAC to achieve its goal of boosting local textile industries.